Transportation- The Taxibe

My reactions to what was my first experience with public transportation in Madagascar, a direct quote from my journal made the day of my first venture out in Antsirabe:

"First taxi-brusse ride today, 9/12/15. It's a fascinating system. At first, it doesn't seem to make very much sense. But as chaotic and crazy as it first appears, there's also a beautifully efficient pattern to the hectic-ness. Taxi-brusses look a little bit like hollowed out VW vans....or the shape does, anyway. There's two seats in the front next to the driver, and then two rows of two seats on either side of the taxi-brusse. And by seat, I mean a seat by Malagasy standards. When it gets full, you're smashed together relentlessly. There's a sliding side door, and then two back doors that swing open. The "conductor" stands at the back, collecting money and closing the door by a canvas strap attached to the roof. A lot of times, he jumps on right after the taxi-brusse has started moving, hanging out the door partially until he pulls the door closed after himself. 

When all of the actual "seats" are full, the conductor keeps letting people on, but hands each of the new passengers some kind of board- some were about a foot wide and padded, others were just a narrow plank, like a 2x4. They'd carry the plank to the front (because you board at the back and fill up front to back) and everyone in the front row stands up, the guy puts his plank down with an edge on each seat, and everyone sits back down. There are now 5 seats in a row, not 4. 

When people get off, and are sitting towards the front, they climb out the side door. The conductor man comes around the side, sticks a hand inside the window and opens the sliding door. The people in the second row jump off, the person who's getting off shuffles out, the second row people shuffle back on, and everyone else squishes further up. The conductor shuts the door, the taxi-brusse starts rolling forward, and the conductor jumps on the moving van and pulls the door shut behind him. 

It's a very oddly efficient system."

By now I have discovered that these buses that operate within the city are called taxibes (literally big taxi) and not taxibrusses (literally bush taxi). I consider myself to be somewhat of an expert on the taxibe now, since I ride one at least 2 times a week (more often 3 or 4) to get to one of my site placements in Tana. The taxibe is actually my preferred method of travel in this country so far- I love the bus.

One reason I love the taxibe so much is because it is so unexpected for a vazaha to be riding the bus, that the reactions of people are just wonderful. People smile and point and laugh (sounds terrifying but it's actually a nice thing) when they see your glaringly white face on the bus. Other passengers, conductors and drivers strike up conversations. Taxi drivers laugh admiringly when you turn down their offer with "mandeha taxibe aho, fa misoatra!" (I take the bus, but thanks!) Being able to hail a bus, and successfully board it, from the side of the road gives you a feeling of accomplishment like none other. You meet the most interesting people and feel a bit more like you belong in this country when you're smashed inside with 25 other Malagasy, chickens, babies, and strange "luggage". 

Honestly, it is still a hectic mess and I love it. 

In fact, I finished this blog on Monday (though I neglected to post it until now) because I had an unexpected day off of work-- the taxibes were striking and there was no way I was going to walk the 8km into Tana. Chaos. Beautiful beautiful chaos. 

I wouldn't trade the taxibe for anything, and I think it is one of the parts I will miss the most about living and working in Tana. 

Here are some of the best tips and tricks I have collected in the past 7 months: 

-The best seats are (in order of preference): last single seat on the right, one of the front seats next to the driver, first seat on the left behind the driver, and any seat next to the window. 

-The length of a full line trip (for me, from Ankarobato-my home- to Anosibe-my work) is 400 Ariary. Pay with a diman-zato when possible---- paying with a 500 will get you back a zato, which is perfect for rakitra (offering). Keep your hymnal with you at all times- when you get back a zato as change, stick it in your hymnal immediately so you aren't tempted to use it for anything but rakitra. 

-If you are far away from the "conductor", he will yell out the amount you paid and the number of fares you paid-- for example, if I passed back a 500 note for just me, he'd yell "diman-zato, iray!"-- when you hear your combination, stick your hand in the air and your change will be passed along to you. 

-If you pay with a 1000 Ariary note, some conductors will say the amount in francs, as it is easier to say "cinq-cents" than "iray arivo". It took me over a month to figure this out. 

-Learn the names of the bus stops on your typical routes!! This can save you money, as shorter routes are less money. When you hand your money to the conductor, say the name of your stop (if it isn't the last stop). Some conductors will also ask, "Aiza?" to which you respond the name of your stop. 

-There are two ways of learning the names of the stops-- listening and asking. Listen to the conductor, who will yell out the names of each stop about a minute before arriving to it. Or ask your neighbor, "Inona ny anarana eto?" (What is the name here?) when you are stopped. As a bonus, they're usually very happy that you are speaking Malagasy and will continue the conversation- which is more practice time for you! 

-Stops are not guaranteed!! You must listen for the conductor, who will yell out the names of the stops and ask "Miala Anakarobato ve?" (Is there a stop at Ankarobato?). When he names your stop, yell "misy miala!" (there's a stop) and put your hand up. If the conductor isn't paying attention and forgets to ask, you might have to yell "misy miala Ankarobato" about a minute before your usual stop. 

-It takes time, but eventually you learn to be slightly rude when getting on and off the bus. You're gonna hit people in the head with your bag, you're gonna step on some toes, and you're gonna accidentally elbow the guy next to you while you're digging for change. Know this. Become okay with it. It is an acceptable part of taxibe culture. 

-On the same note, when trying to catch a taxibe during rush hour (not recommended, avoid at all costs) use your American-sized bulk to your advantage. There is no such thing as "an orderly line" in Madagascar-- there is a pack of people all pushing to get on the same van. If you are polite, you will literally never catch a bus. Run toward the bus with everyone else, and once you get close to the door, use your bigger size to block other people from the door (brace yourself against the more aggressive younger men) until you can climb on. 

-On the street, if you see the bus you want coming towards you, beckon to the driver with a hand clawing toward yourself. This is the Malagasy version of our finger curl, to say "come here". The bus often will slow down to a roll, but not stop. The common response to this is to trot towards the bus, wait until the conductor opens the door, and jump on. Grab onto the ladder on the left door while planting your right foot on the back step and pull yourself on. Don't be alarmed when the conductor puts an arm around your shoulders to help pull you on and prevent you from falling off backwards- this is normal (not just for vazaha, or even just for women, this is normal for all people). 

-It is exceedingly polite to offer your seat to older people if you are sitting on the outside, by the aisle, and an old person is about to sit in the aisle on a plank. Stand up and offer "afaka mipetraka eto", while moving out into the aisle. (Also note, it is also acceptable and polite to use the terms dadabe and bebe--grandfather and grandmother--to refer to old men and women, though I have only pulled it off on the taxibe and nowhere else)

-Sing along with the radio when you know the songs! It often turns into a big sing-along, and you make people smile when you show that you (kind of) know Malagasy songs. My crowd pleaser is definitely 'Za Leo' by ODYAI, though I only know the chorus. 

-Finally, learn to be laid back and have fun with it. Stuff happens. You have no control over the taxibe. The sooner you accept this and find the humor in it, the better off you will be. 

I wish everyone could experience the taxibe at least once, as it is one of my favorite parts of living in Madagascar, surprisingly enough, but it's near impossible to describe. I've barely scratched the surface here, though I hope it was at least marginally useful for some!