Thursday, December 24, 2015

Christmastime Hope

Today, Thursday the 24th of December, has passed much like every other day thus far in Madagascar. I don't work on Thursdays, so these are my errand days: the early morning saw me sleep in (until 7:30!!!!!!), eat my customary breakfast of bread with butter and jam, venture out to the MVola stand to make a withdrawal, and buy laundry soap and jus natural (corossal, of course) from my favorite hotely on the walk home. Late morning was consumed by laundry, taking my customary 2-2.5 hours to complete. Then lunch with my father, cuddling with the cat, language studying, and general free time until dinner. I risked a look at the weather today- RealFeel of 87 degrees Fahrenheit and 70% humidity. Never having been one to enjoy heat or sun, the weather right now is oppressive. Mafana be ny andro!!! Today was a typical Thursday here in Tanjombato, down to the last minute detail.

Suffice it to say, Christmas has actually been the last thing on my mind lately. I checked my email today and saw a full out list of blogs from fellow YAGMs reflecting quite beautifully on spending their first Christmas abroad- how things are different, how homesickness is being felt, and on finding the beauty of familiarity in Christmastime celebrations at their site. I felt obliged to write something similar... So in order to get myself in the Christmas mood, I popped on my holiday playlist.
And the first song to play was "Happy Xmas" covered by Maroon 5. Well, that's cheery. For those of you not familiar, it's melancholy, acoustic, and slightly minor. The first lines are: So this is Christmas/And what have you done/Another year over/And a new one just begun/And so this is Christmas/For weak and for strong/For rich and the poor ones/The world is so wrong. 
The next song to come up was "Christmas Lights" by Coldplay, which is about a couple breaking up on Christmas Eve. Oh, lovely. A sampling of the lyrics: Christmas night,/Another fight,/Tears we cried,/A flood/Got all kinds of poison in, of poison in my blood...When you're still waiting for the snow to fall/It doesn't really feel like Christmas at all. 

Wow. To tell the truth, I really identified with these songs. The overall feel of them fit my mood: acknowledging the season without really having any real feeling invested in it. Kind of melancholy, disappointed, negative, maybe just a bit hopeless... I don't mean to say that life here is any of those things- I am very thankful to be where I am. I love my family, students, community here. But as a person who is prone to such feelings at all points in my life, these emotions were what stuck out to me most prominently in those songs and what I identified with. 

How am I going to write a happy, well thought out, theologically meaningful, 'I love YAGM and Madagascar and Jesus all the time and life is sunshine and rainbows' blog now?!?!

And then I was angry on top of all that! Angry at my own inability to write beautifully about Christmas here like other YAGMs, angry at my feelings of 'what am I even accomplishing here?', angry at having such downers of Christmas songs, and angry at the damn heat!! 

And that's where I'm at. Truthfully, raw and unashamed, this is where I'm at. This Christmas Eve, I don't have any meaningful observations about seeing God here in Madagascar. No heartwarming stories of my community sharing in Christmas traditions new to me and new to them. 
I got stuck on the feelings of meaninglessness. 
It's too easy to get bogged down in these feelings. 
We lose sight of ourselves in the midst of the world, getting lost in the constant deluge of evil that can seem to emanate from every pore. We lose sight of the world in the midst of ourselves, falling so quickly into the sin of pride that allows us to place ourselves at the center of our lives. 

I look at things like the terror attacks in Paris a month ago, at the wars being waged by ISIS, at the way in which my country is responding to the refugee crisis... And I feel so angry at the evil, the selfishness, violence, and hate that exists in our world. All of that darkness, it feels overwhelmingly vast. The world is so wrong. 
I look at my life, here and before, and can't help but to wonder what I am actually accomplishing in the long run. YAGM- young adults in global mission. Sometimes I wonder- what's my mission, really? Teaching English? What have you done? 
And I know that these thoughts aren't the absolute truth, that there is a deeper truth that runs underneath; that of God and light and love. And I also know that I will always be prone to believing first the dark feelings of disparity and meaninglessness over that of God's truth. Got all kinds of poison in, of poison in my blood. 

...and in the writing of this blog, I looked up the lyrics to quote them accurately; and in doing so, I read a few lines more that I had overlooked on my first listen. 
From "Merry Xmas": And so happy Christmas/For black and for white/For yellow and red ones/Let's stop all the fight/A very merry Christmas/And a happy New Year/Let's hope it's a good one/Without any fear. 
And from "Christmas Lights": Up above candles on air flicker/Oh they flicker and they glow/And I am up here holding on to all those chandeliers of hope/Oh Christmas lights light up the street/Light up the fire once in me/May all your troubles soon be gone/Those Christmas lights keep shining on. 

Ha- and there we have the nice neat ending I'd been despairing over. The Lord shall provide, after all. 
For those of you to whom this seems all just a bit too conveniently placed, too neatly wrapped up with a bow, I assure you, it was not my intent. 

Honestly, I was too wrapped up in those feelings of despair and self pity and helplessness to listen to the messages of hope in the end of those two songs. A Facebook friend of mine the other day posted a link to an article describing how hopelessness was in itself a form of privilege- that there are some in our world who cannot afford to lose hope. For some, hope is the only thing they have to survive on. 
Hope... In the end, hope seems to be the overall message of Christmas to me. The prevailing reason for the season. Christians celebrate this time of great hope, given to us in the form of Jesus; I like to think also that other religions all celebrate this same thing in their own way. I believe it is the common thread that unites all of us. I've heard people say that we are all united as children of God, as creatures all having the same divine spark, the imago dei... But I'd disagree. From a Christian standpoint, yes- everyone is made in the image of God and we are all brothers and sisters in Christ. But from a Muslim standpoint, that view might not make much sense. To a Buddhist, it might not be compatible with their beliefs. A Hindu might be lost completely. 

But we all believe in hope. All of humanity. We cannot escape that pesky, overwhelming sense of hope. 
Some despise hope. "Hope is the worst of all evils, for it prolongs the torture of man." Friederich Nietzsche
Some revel in hope. "Hope is the thing with feathers." Emily Dickinson
But we all feel hope. And sometimes, I think we take that sense of hope and call it God. 
Maybe that's sacreligious, I don't know; all I can say is that right now, that's my faith. That God is hope. Above all else. One of my dearest friends holds very firm to her conviction that God is love- the most predominant definition of God I've heard by far- and to her I would say, where is the evidence for that? In Jesus, most obviously. "For God so loved the world." But in my opinion, that defines God by what we need him for. When I say God is love, I only see humanity's overwhelming need to be loved, to feel validated. 
In seeing God as hope, I see layers of hoping- the hope that God must have had in humanity's potential, the hope of Jesus in the outcome of his sacrifice, the hope that has been given to us by God and Jesus and the Holy Spirit. Is love still part of the equation? For certain, it isn't possible to have hope without love. But hope seems a more fitting, encompassing qualifier than love. 
God hopes in us as we hope in God.
In the midst of darkness the Christmas light will continue to shine on year after year- one small pinprick, just one man, can shatter our darkness. 

So that is where I will wrap up this rambling blog of thoughts. 
With hope. 

Christmas lights light up the street, light up the fire once in me- may all your troubles soon be gone. Merry Christmas, and a happy new year- let's hope it's a good one without any fear. 

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Welcome Home

The Madagascar YAGM program just completed our first in country retreat- a time for us to get together, worship God, appreciate some of the beauty of Mada, and to speak English with native speakers again. It was a glorious week. 

On Tuesday, our MadYAGMs started filtering into Antananarivo for Thanksgiving and the Tana dwellers began planning our feast. Then two of our YAGM family were with us, then all 9 of us were together again. We cooked dinner (and I made a pie!) and hung out. We travelled to Andasibe and spent four days hiking in the rainforest, chasing down lemurs, holding ginormous bright green roly-poly bugs, planting treelings, and listening to the constant indri symphony. We had Sunday devotions under a lean-to as the lemurs played on top of our roof, we swam in yet another waterfall, and I even tried slack lining (with a lot of help from Nicholas and Ryan). At the end of our retreat, I sang Holden evening prayer for us and Kirsten treated us to pizza; we all slept at her place in a tangle of limbs on the hardwood floor. 

I traveled back to Tanjombato on Wednesday on a packed taxibe, having aggressively used my American-sized-bulk to push on the bus amidst the familiar throng of Malagasy at my usual bus stop. Walking the familiar winding brick road back to my house, my favorite heckler yelled at me from her fruit stand- "Bonjour, Clara! Clara!" Nono (the sweetest man who looks after the animals at our house) was at a hotely halfway between home and the bus, and gave me a handshake and a "tonga soa" as I passed. My host parents brought me into their room and fussed over my excessive mosquito bites (Moka be! Marary ve ianao?), gave me a bag of lychees, told me they missed me, and informed me that there was a surprise waiting for me in my room- a new nightstand/side table. My little host brother Arona burst into laughter when he saw me at dinner, and spent the entire meal waving at me and clapping when I imitated his movements. Mimi the kitten was deemed old enough to be let off her tether in the kitchen while I was away and now has free range of the grounds, so I spent the majority of my night with the cat on my shoulder like a familiar. 

Thursday was laundry day, like it always has been. I washed three entire loads of laundry, and felt ridiculously proud when my host momma said, "Tsy raraka? Mahery be ianao!" She was probably humoring me (after all, it still took me almost six hours), but I was proud nonetheless. And teaching on Friday, my level 2 students asked me to tell them the story of Romeo and Juliet- I got way into it with strange voices, they got way into it with over the top reactions to my strange voices. We discussed potions and witches and ombiasa (in great detail, with labelled pictures of witches dancing on tombs and apparently, "riding their victims like horses"...) 6 of them walked me home to my front gate and I got hugs from each and every one of them, after I repeatedly promised that I would be back again tomorrow to teach. Tanjona (one of my favorites- he's smart as a whip with fantastic English and a sense of humor) defended my honor as a vazaha on the way home- "Aaahhhnnnnn, tsy vazaha!! Malagasy izy! Tsy vazaha!" *heart melt* 

Welcome home, indeed.
I didn't realize how much I had considered Tanjombato to be home already, until I returned to it. 

My most recent musical obsession has been the song 'Welcome Home' by Radical Face. It's beautifully haunting and oh-so-catchy. It's been on repeat for the past two or three weeks now. And while it's been providing the background music for the past month, it's never been more fitting than these past days:
Sleep don't visit, so I choke on sun
and the days blur into one 
and the backs of my eyes 
hum with things I've never done
Sheets are swaying 
from an old clothesline 
like a row of captured ghosts 
over old dead grass was never much 
but we've made the most 
welcome home

All of us together again! Working to put our Thanksgiving feast together :) 

Ryan made us two amazing turkeys... 

Hannah made a mango sorbet and pumpkin casserole that were to die for... 

And I made a voaroy (tayberry-esque), strawberry, lime, and mango pie. Yummmmmm! We were so stuffed.

We saw a double rainbow on our way to Andasibe, a sure sign that our retreat was going to be blessed. 

Soarina kely! 
On a night hike our first day in Andasibe... 

Tanana! 

What kind of centipede is red?! 
Our guides' answer: centipede mena. 
Thanks, bro. 

Rainforest!! 

We were in search of lemurs, of course! And wow, did we find them... Over six different species! 
My favorite was this guy, the indri, the largest living lemurs and also one of the loudest mammals. 
I called them the land whales, both for their size and for their song.

Fairytale illustration? No, that's just Madagascar rainforest, no big. 

*jaw. drop.* 
Definitely worth the millions of stairs we had to climb to get this view. 

Ginormous green roly-poly bugs... Who knew? 

The SECOND waterfall we've swam in here in Madagascar... I dunno if I'll ever be able to return to just plain lakes now. 

Ryan holding a boa, and Dipsy making sure Ryan doesn't get killed by the boa. 

Believe it or not, there is a gecko in this picture. 
It took us 10 minutes to find this guy... Dipsy saw it as he was walking by. 
I'll give you a hint- it's on the tree trunk. Still don't see it? Right above the big knot in the bottom of the picture. Look for his eyes.

Doing our part to plant some treelings- gotta help combat deforestation!

Cheers!